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The PIT

Windows Creaters Spring update

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Yet another update no problems installing however

Re-introduced stutter in games. Removing all the x box stuff improved things but didn't fix it. The next thing IO noticed that it had partly nobbled my sound card so I only had 44hz playback and no dolby. You could the receiver detecting the different inputs  but no sound. Uninstalling and re-installing the drivers didn't fix. So I had to go for the version which didn't support dolby live which fixed the issue. However the stutter is still ongoing.

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Well reduced the stuttering further but still there. Looks like nvidia have some serious gremlins in the drivers and need to talk to Microsoft to fix them.

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I, too, had trouble with this update on my desktop PC - it slowed my computer to a crawl after the first couple of restarts, it corrupted my ChessBase registration (requiring me to re-register my product key), and it wasted no opportunity to (unsuccessfully) give me another shove in the direction of Microsoft's recommended privacy and internet browsing defaults.  After a couple of days it sped up to near normal though.

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The laptop kept jumping between my calibrated colour profile and something blue - could be windows default
A further manual restart seems to have fixed it.
Older desktop curiously lost sound but it had simply *decided* to change to headphone settings. I don't even own headphones so it had no precedent.
Newer desktop still seems undecided if it dares do it, and hasn't suggested doing anything yet.

Remarkably little seems to have changed, (that I use).
They do seem to have strange ideas about what constitutes amazing new features.

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After this update I now have to type in my password to log into windows, where as before I entered it once and it then automatically did it every time I turned the pc on. There was also an error message saying it was unable to log me in (I forget the actual wording).

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17 minutes ago, Stormraider said:

After this update I now have to type in my password to log into windows, where as before I entered it once and it then automatically did it every time I turned the pc on. There was also an error message saying it was unable to log me in (I forget the actual wording).

You might be able to turn it off in user accounts, they seem muddled with this, one of mine is still OK with no password at all, the other requires it on reboot but not from sleep (if that's what you mean) since changing in users account.
Meanwhile my video editing machine is struggling, it has prompted to update twice but restarts with a screen at wrong resolution - which asks for password (!) then says it's wrong, and restarts but reverts to previous windows version.
I'm trying to do it manually now as a full download.
 

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On 20/05/2018 at 17:13, Thundery wintry showers said:

I, too, had trouble with this update on my desktop PC - it slowed my computer to a crawl after the first couple of restarts, it corrupted my ChessBase registration (requiring me to re-register my product key), and it wasted no opportunity to (unsuccessfully) give me another shove in the direction of Microsoft's recommended privacy and internet browsing defaults.  After a couple of days it sped up to near normal though.

One of the few times it didn't mess up my chessbase software. Lost count the number of times I've had to ask for a license code reset.

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My video editing PC has been trying to do the update but seems to fail due to a driver issue, I'm thinking it will have to wait for now.
Been trying a range of ways to workaround it such as using the manual update tool and making an image on a USB. 
Always the same result - it flashes through to 30% then reboots to a blue 'wait' screen, eventually rebooting again into what looks like safe mode but you can't log-in or do anything except restart.
Then it reverts to previous version.
This soon gets tedious - must have been through it at least six times :help:
There is a list of SSds which are known to have driver problems but mine isn't on it.
Manually checking for diver updates I found one for Bluetooth, (which was disabled)  but that didn't help.
 

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The update troubleshooter said something about corrupt update database, I did some fixes which are supposed to delete any cached files and re-download - still didn't work and now the (unhelpful) troubleshooter won't start either.

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Windows 10 released a new build (1803) not long ago. If you're not on it, it might be best to update to that.

Windows build updates are basically OS reinstalls and messy ones at that. Your drivers can get messed up, your programs stop working and more issues besides.

If you have access to your hardware drivers and the knowledge of how to do a clean OS reinstall, then I'd start there. Grab an ISO of the latest windows 10 build by downloading the microsoft media creation tool and using it to either burn a dvd or better yet a bootable usb (the tool will do both). if you want dvd, you'll need a blank dvd-r disc. For usb, any flash drive will do, but will need to be bigger than 8gb in capacity.

boot your pc off of that and delete any windows partitions (usually called "recovery" or "system reserved" and the OS itself) There will also be a third partition called "EFI system" if your pcs BIOS is UEFI (most never motherboards are, but older ones won't be). Once these are deleted, click "new" and enter a size for the windows partition (if you split your drive into different partitions, "47000" will be sufficient, otherwise just leave that number as it is and allocate the entire drive). the OS will create all necessary partitions. Click on the partition marked primary and then install windows to it.

once the os is installed, reinstall any hardware drivers and whatever software you use. Update windows as soon as you're online and you should be good to go.

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This update was a bit of a nightmare for me - it seemed to be going smoothly until it took me to a screen asking me to choose my keyboard layout, which I did. Then it took me to another screen called 'advanced options' and every option I selected wouldn't work. No restore points existed nor could I go back to the previous version of Windows. Automatic repair couldn't fix whatever was the problem. In the end I had to reset everything.

I really have no idea what happened there, but everything is working fine now.

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12 hours ago, Ice Man 85 said:

Windows 10 released a new build (1803) not long ago. If you're not on it, it might be best to update to that.

Windows build updates are basically OS reinstalls and messy ones at that. Your drivers can get messed up, your programs stop working and more issues besides.

If you have access to your hardware drivers and the knowledge of how to do a clean OS reinstall, then I'd start there. Grab an ISO of the latest windows 10 build by downloading the microsoft media creation tool and using it to either burn a dvd or better yet a bootable usb (the tool will do both). if you want dvd, you'll need a blank dvd-r disc. For usb, any flash drive will do, but will need to be bigger than 8gb in capacity.

boot your pc off of that and delete any windows partitions (usually called "recovery" or "system reserved" and the OS itself) There will also be a third partition called "EFI system" if your pcs BIOS is UEFI (most never motherboards are, but older ones won't be). Once these are deleted, click "new" and enter a size for the windows partition (if you split your drive into different partitions, "47000" will be sufficient, otherwise just leave that number as it is and allocate the entire drive). the OS will create all necessary partitions. Click on the partition marked primary and then install windows to it.

once the os is installed, reinstall any hardware drivers and whatever software you use. Update windows as soon as you're online and you should be good to go.

You don't need to go through all of that. In any case, why would you say it's best to update to 1803 and then suggest to do all of the above? Ridiculous suggestion for anyone with a mature machine. Do you work at PC World?

That aside, i've had zero problems with the updates. I even cloned my drive over to my new M.2 SSD, took 15 minutes and I was able to boot from it straight away. Lightning fast web rendering, app/game loading now.

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I'm not keen on attempting a full install with latest W10 if there still might be a driver issue.
At the moment it works fine and won't attempt to update again unless it's restarted (rare).
This PC is only about six months and a high end machine for rendering 4K in real time. 
It rarely goes online, in fact could stay off altogether quite easily.
 

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3 hours ago, Mapantz said:

You don't need to go through all of that. In any case, why would you say it's best to update to 1803 and then suggest to do all of the above? Ridiculous suggestion for anyone with a mature machine. Do you work at PC World?

That aside, i've had zero problems with the updates. I even cloned my drive over to my new M.2 SSD, took 15 minutes and I was able to boot from it straight away. Lightning fast web rendering, app/game loading now.

Because the registry and thus drivers/programs can get messed up in the migration. A clean install is always the best way to go if you want to avoid such issues. Work for pc world? I'm insulted. If I worked for pc world, I'd be trying to play AAA games in 4k on an intel HD.

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Posted (edited)

I have a desktop PC which had Windows 10 pre-installed from the beginning, and a laptop which got upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10.  My app settings seem to be a lot more prone to resetting back to the defaults with successive updates on the laptop, not sure if the fact that it was originally a Windows 7 machine is contributing to bugs in the app default handling.  For example a recent minor update reset all of my folder view settings back to the defaults. This time around the picture viewer changed back to "Photos" with the 1803 update (note that there are some file types for which "Photos" doesn't even work!)  On the plus side my laptop did not get the ChessBase or slow down problems that I encountered on my desktop.

Edited by Thundery wintry showers

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8 minutes ago, Thundery wintry showers said:

I have a desktop PC which had Windows 10 pre-installed from the beginning, and a laptop which got upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10.  My app settings seem to be a lot more prone to resetting back to the defaults with successive updates on the laptop, not sure if the fact that it was originally a Windows 7 machine is contributing to bugs in the app default handling.  For example a recent minor update reset all of my folder view settings back to the defaults. This time around the picture viewer changed back to "Photos" with the 1803 update (note that there are some file types for which "Photos" doesn't even work!)  On the plus side my laptop did not get the ChessBase or slow down problems that I encountered on my desktop.

thats due to the fact that windows build updates in effect, are reinstalls of the OS (and messy ones at that). everything is effectively either migrated or reinstalled during the restarts. Its why I opt to do clean installs rather than having to trawl through to see what still works and what doesn't.

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Looks like the stuttering issues were due to a dying psu. Annoying that it didn't wait until the new threadripper was out. Anyway moved to all amd setup running nicely. Didn't expect windows to boot but it did and then cleared all the intel drivers out and running smoothly. Had re-activate windows and office, and my chessbase program plus unreal T 3 which is annoying. 

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